We Americans are a little shy of confessing that any title or conventional grandeur makes an impression upon us. I myself had few thoughts, fancies, emotions. It is better to set them down at once just as they are. Yet everybody knows that the worst dangers begin after we have got near enough to see the shore, for there are several ways of landing, not all of which are equally desirable. She is as tough as an old macaw, or she would not have lasted so long. The moral is that one should avoid being a duke and living in a palace, unless he is born to it, which he had perhaps better not be, — that is, if he has his choice in the robing chamber where souls are fitted with their earthly garments. Everybody knows that secrete crossword december. They probably took me for an agent of the manufacturers; and so I was, but not in their pay nor with their knowledge. So many persons expressed a desire to make our acquaintance that we thought it would be acceptable to them if we would give a reception ourselves. They are not considered in place in a wellkept lawn. He lies in Westminster Abbey, it is true, but he would probably have preferred the upper side of his own hearth-stone to the under side of the slab which covers him. The older memories came up but vaguely; an American finds it as hard to call back anything over two or three centuries old as a suckingpump to draw up water from a depth of over thirty-three feet and a fraction. The pool, as I afterwards learned, fell to the lot of the Turkish Ambassador.
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House full of pretty things. If at home we wince before any official with a sense of blighted inferiority, it is by general confession the clerk at the hotel office. Everybody knows that secrete crossword puzzles. That first experience could not be mended. Perhaps it is true; certainly it was a very convenient arrangement for discouraging an untimely visit. To all who remember Géricault's Wreck of the Medusa, — and those who have seen it do not forget it, — the picture the mind draws is one it shudders at. I got along well enough as soon as I landed, and have had no return of the trouble since I have been back in my own home. It was the sight of the boats hanging along at the sides of the deck, — the boats, always suggesting the fearful possibility that before another day dawns one may be tossing about in the watery Sahara, shelterless, fireless, almost foodless, with a fate before him he dares not contemplate.
At one part it overlooks a wide level field, over which the annual races are run. We followed the master of the stables, meekly listening, and once in a while questioning. So in London, but in a week it all seemed natural enough. When I landed in Liverpool, everything looked very dark, very dingy, very massive, in the streets I drove through. The creatures of the deep which gather around sailing vessels are perhaps frightened off by the noise and stir of the steamship. The horse I was about to see win was not unworthy of being named with the renowned champion of my earlier day. Everyone knows the secret now. I was so pleased with it that I exhibited it to the distinguished tonsors of Burlington Arcade, half afraid they would assassinate me for bringing in an innovation which bid fair to destroy their business. I found it very windy and uncomfortable on the more exposed parts of the grand stand, and was glad that I had taken a shawl with me, in which I wrapped myself as if I had been on shipboard. The Duke is a famous breeder and lover of the turf. Not the sound of the rushing winds, nor the sight of the foam-crested billows; not the sense of the awful imprisoned force which was wrestling in the depths below me. How thoroughly England is groomed!
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I should never have thought of such an expedition if it had not been suggested by another member of my family that I should accompany my daughter, who was meditating a trip to Europe. A secretary was evidently a matter of immediate necessity. Passengers carry all sorts of luxuries on board, in the firm faith that they shall be able to profit by them all. When we came to look at the accommodations, we found they were not at all adapted to our needs. "The Bard" has made a good fight for the first place, and comes in second. Lesser grandeurs do not find us very impressible. There is, however, something about the man who deals in horses which takes down the spirit, however proud, of him who is unskilled in equestrian matters and unused to the horse-lover's vocabulary. 17 Dover Street, Mackellar's Hotel, where we found ourselves comfortably lodged and well cared for during the whole time we were in London. It is pure good-will to my race which leads me to commend the Star Razor to all who travel by land or by sea, as well as to all who stay at home. I was assured that I should be kindly received in England. She was of English birth, lively, shortgaited, serviceable, more especially in the first of her dual capacities. A lively, wholesome, and encouraging discourse, such as it would do many a forlorn New England congregation good to hear. With the other gifts came a small tin box, about as big as a common round wooden match box. He was only twice my age, and was gettingon finely towards his two hundredth year, when the Earl of Arundel carried him up to London, and, being feasted and made a lion of, he found there a premature and early grave at the age of only one hundred and fifty-two years.
Impermeable rugs and fleecy shawls, head-gear to defy the rudest northeasters, sea-chairs of ample dimensions, which we took care to place in as sheltered situations as we could find, — all these were a matter of course. This was the winner of the race I saw so long ago. They have a tough gray rind and a rich interior, which find food and lodging for numerous tenants, who live and die under their shelter or their shadow, — lowly servitors some of them, portly dignitaries others, humble, holy ministers of religion many, I doubt not, — larvæ of angels, who will get their wings by and by. The luncheon is a very convenient affair: it does not require special dress; it is informal; it is soon over, and may be made light or heavy, as one chooses.
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After the race we had a luncheon served us, a comfortable and substantial one, which was very far from unwelcome. You will surely die, eating such cold stuff, " said a lady to my companion. The clearing the course of stragglers, and the chasing about of the frightened little dog who had got in between the thick ranks of spectators, reminded me of what I used to see on old " artillery election " days. Most of the trees are of very moderate dimensions, feathered all the way up their long slender trunks, with a lopsided mop of leaves at the top, like a wig which has slipped awry. Between the scenes we went behind the curtain, and saw the very curious and admirable machinery of the dramatic spectacle. One costly contrivance, sent me by the Reverend Mr. H-, whom I have never duly thanked for it, looked more like an angelic trump for me to blow in a better world than what I believe it is, an inhaling tube intended to prolong my mortal respiration. A great beauty is almost certainly thinking how she looks while one is talking with her; an authoress is waiting to have one praise her book; but a grand old lady, who loves London society, who lives in it, who understands young people and all sorts of people, with her high-colored recollections of the past and her grand-maternal interests in the new generation, is the best of companions, especially over a cup of tea just strong enough to stir up her talking ganglions. It had a long slender handle, which took apart for packing, and was put together with the greatest ease. It is true that Sir Henry Holland came to this country, and travelled freely about the world, after he was eighty years old; but his pitcher went to the well once too often, and met the usual doom of fragile articles. No one was so much surprised as myself at my undertaking this visit. The dove flew all over the habitable districts of the city, - inquired at as many as twenty houses. I am almost ready to think this and that child's face has been colored from a pink saucer. I did so, and, unfolding my paper, found it was a blank, and passed on. At Chester we had the blissful security of being unknown, and were left to ourselves.
When one sees an old house in New England with the second floor projecting a foot or two beyond the wall of the ground floor, the country boy will tell him that " them haouses was built so th't th' folks up-stairs could shoot the Injins when they was tryin to git threew th' door or int' th' winder. " I quote from a writer in the London Morning Post, whose words, it will be seen, carry authority with them: —. " We had been a fortnight in London, and were now inextricably entangled in the meshes of the golden web of London social life. There is an excuse for this, inasmuch as he holds our destinies in his hands, and decides whether, in case of accident, we shall have to jump from the third or the sixth story window. I was once offered pay for a poem in praise of a certain stove-polish, but I declined.
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Our Liverpool friends were meditating more hospitalities to us than, in our fatigued condition, we were equal to supporting. There must have been some magic secret in it, for I am sure that I looked five years younger after closing that little box than when I opened it. I apologized for my error. " Then they were brought out, smooth, shining, fine-drawn, frisky, spirit-stirring to look upon, — most beautiful of all the bay horse Ormonde, who could hardly be restrained, such was his eagerness for action. Breakfasts, lunches, dinners, teas, receptions with spread tables, two, three, and four deep of an evening, with receiving company at our own rooms, took up the day, so that we had very little time for common sight-seeing. Others were sometimes absent, and sometimes came to time when they were in a very doubtful state, looking as if they were saying to themselves, with Lear, —. I determined to let other persons know what a convenience I had found the " Star Razor " of Messrs. Kampf, of Brooklyn, New York, without fear of reproach for so doing. He showed us various fine animals, some in their stalls, some outside of them. I must have spoken of this intention to some interviewer, for I find the following paragraph in an English sporting newspaper, The Field, for May 29th, 1886. "
I was most fortunate in my objects of comparison. I was off on my first long vacation for half a century, and had a right to my whims and fancies. With the first sight of land many a passenger draws a long sigh of relief. The visit has answered most of its purposes for both of us, and if we have saved a few recollections which our friends can take any pleasure in reading, this slight record may be considered a work of supererogation. The tougher neighbor is the gainer by these acts of kindness; the generosity of a sea-sick sufferer in giving away the delicacies which seemed so desirable on starting is not ranked very high on the books of the recording angel. All this was tempting enough, but there was an obstacle in the way which I feared, and, as it proved, not without good reason. A breakfast, a lunch, a tea, is a circumstance, an occurrence, in social life, but a dinner is an event. Of these kinds of entertainment, the breakfast, though pleasant enough when the company is agreeable, as I always found it, is the least convenient of all times and modes of visiting. Mrs. B. Msent her carriage for us to take us to a lunch at her house, where we met Mr. Browning, Oscar Wilde and his handsome wife, and other well-known guests. The " butcher " of the ship opened them fresh for us every day, and they were more acceptable than anything else. I trust that I am not finding everything couleur de rose; but I certainly do find the cheeks of children and young persons of such brilliant rosy hue as I do not remember that I have ever seen before.
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Among other curiosities a portfolio of drawings illustrating Keeley's motor, which, up to this time, has manifested a remarkably powerful vis inertiœ, but which promises miracles. I could not help remembering Thackeray's story of his asking some simple question of a royal or semi-royal personage whom he met in the courtyard of an hotel, which question his Highness did not answer, but called a subordinate to answer for him. No doubt we should feel worse without the boats; still they are dreadful tell-tales. My desire to see the Derby of this year was of the same origin and character as that which led me to revisit many scenes which I remembered. The Prince is of a lively temperament and a very cheerful aspect, — a young girl would call him " jolly " as well as "nice. " How could I be in a fitting condition to accept the attention of my friends in Liverpool, after sitting up every night for more than a week; and how could I be in a mood for the catechizing of interviewers, without having once lain down during the whole return passage? Probably the well-known, etc., etc., Of one thing Dr. Holmes may rest finally satisfied: the Derby of 1886 may possibly have seemed to him far less exciting than that of 1834; but neither in 1834 nor in any other year was the great race ever won by a better sportsman or more honorable man than the Duke of Westminster. What does the reader suppose was the source of the most ominous thought which forced itself upon my mind, as I walked the decks of the mighty vessel?
But to those who live, as most of us do, in houses of moderate dimensions, snug, comfortable, which the owner's presence fills sufficiently, leaving room for a few visitors, a vast marble palace is disheartening and uninviting.
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