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Joined: Apr/20/2008. What they're doing is adjusting the stagger minutely, so that the car can go straight down the track. In other words – if the trailing arm starts on an uphill angle I do not want it to go past level and then head downhill. First thing on the list was assembling the ladder bars. The more the shoe polish is worn away during the lap, the higher the load is on that wheel. Ladder bar car with bounce in suspension. If you think about it every car has to have its own neutral line and cog its going to be different in every car.
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Keep in mind that anti-squat only takes advantage of the available grip through the use of mechanical leverage. The squatting and anti squatting action you see between the tire and body is a product of how much weight is transferred from the force of gravity trying to hold the car in place and the power (force) of your engine pushing against it. I do not think that the ladder bar is double adjustable, I can not see any adjustments on the lower bars. Using your three link suspension to dial in your car is a viable adjustment option that can be performed quickly right at the track. But if the front tires are "driving" out of the beams as the wheelstand is progressing (over a longer period of time) then adjusting the front shock extension valving tighter-stiffer might help calm the wheelstand a given amount. Ladder bar adjustment wheel stands for sale. Thanks, Jim... ideos/7654... ideos/7654. The weight transfer, however, varies with the acceleration. Using the J-Bar mounting angle to in conjunction with trailing arm angles both up and down and left to right gives you another tool in your arsenal helping you to achieve faster lap times.
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Ladder bars are easier to tune for the novice than the 4-link and, when set up correctly, provide the same benefits. Experience at a given track plays a big role here. This provides the right geometry for the driveshaft rotation. There are those who say that an ARB is not needed on a ladder car.
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Going to base line the shocks and go at it again. This is an important step in assuring the bars are located front to back in the wheel well. A "link" has pivots at BOTH ends. You can prove that this happens by having someone film you and zoom in on your hand. If you run a high amount of wedge then level may be a better idea. The kit came with the ladder bars, coil-over shocks, track locater and tubing for mounting the system. Time trials were okay with the wheels lifting about a foot. Call me a wimp but right now I'm afraid to let go of the button. Best pass with the new combo in 1/8 was 1. Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw... gregsdart. In shock valving/dampening terms "bump" & "compression" mean or describe the same thing/action (compressing the shock). Ladder bar adjustments. When you launch, the car's front comes up as weight is transferred to the rear tires as you pump the gas. Certainly, if there was absolutely no deflection with the ladder bar car, there would be no need for an ARB. Too soft springs or too light shock rebound means the front end of the chassis might separate from the wheel too violently, causing a jerking motion.
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Should i go 1 hole up or 2 up? His career began in the car audio industry as a shop manager, eventually working his way into a position at Rockford Fosgate as a product designer. There's a spreadsheet at my site which covers this. The upper mount ears were positioned vertically and the placement was marked for the crossmember. As far as adding nose weight causing a loss of consistency goes just remember that we are talking about making small increases in nose weight from pass to pass during testing (think "fine tuning", say in 5 lb increments), vs throwing a bunch of weight on the nose all at once. Pump up your rear tire pressure some then tie down. Social Media Managers. Ladder bar adjustment wheel stands heavy duty. Quote="dadnova"]OK, help me understand the less down track theory?? In case someone would ask, the usual 2-3 degrees down is what I'm after...... Lot of questions, I know... I am thinking about going either 12 or 13 psi and staying away from 12. Adding more power at the launch can also have an effect, sometimes good (more wheel-speed), and sometimes bad (more dead-hook & more violent wheelstand) it can be a crap-shoot what the end result will be when adding more power at the hit.
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Wouldnt it be better to have more tire pressure than less? If there like a 3 way and the current setting is like a 90/10, you need to try a 60/40. It is possible that you could get a late race center push or the loose in condition could return after the tires heat up and wear a bit. Ladder bar adjustment wheel stands for rv. 3200 pound tube chassis car, 580 cube motor making north of 900 hp. Just read a very good artical by Billy Slope. Current set up 8 3/4 axle sure grip 3. The 4-link offers the maximum amount of adjustability, which allows for chassis tuning at the track. You should first limit the travel of the front suspension.
By thinking out the trailing arm angles in conjunction with the J-Bar angle you can guide the rear end housing on the path that helps your set up through the turn. 1970AMX390/4spSonicw/mask&3Gremm's. Location: Niagara Falls, NY. Wheeling & Dealing: How to Set Up and Adjust a Wheelie Bar. And when you adjust "one flat", is that 1/6 turn on the nut? Launching a car successfully is a combination of rear suspension, rear shocks, front travel, and front shocks. Less down force down track on mine i added weight to rear and went up on front of bars and it hooked to hard so i went back to center and hooked nice and carried wheels nice on a soft leave. Loosen the compression setting on the rear shock and it will calm the wheelie to a point. And a video of a typical launch that goes "wrong": Baklys. Up = Harder Hit But Less Down Track.
This is wery important for me to find out! The shock crossmember was welded to the rear down bars on the roll cage. One way is to try tightening the rear shock extension valving some more (make it harder to "hit" the tire all at once). What should happen is your front end should rise in a controlled manner, enough to keep the rear tires loaded, facilitating better traction, and then slowly settle and smoothly transition to ride height as you accelerate down the track. I'm looking for more. I actually have a 68 camaro it weights 2760 with me in the car. If there is a way to set the rear end to allow the front end settings to not be so critical I might be able to get this to work without bars. Drivers can adjust their line for a center push or exit loose but entry loose means you simply have to lift sooner. Remember, too, that slick rollout can change from tire to tire. Unless parts are falling off your car as you go down the strip, the location of the center of gravity remains fixed. To really add over steer at the rear end housing you can mount the front pivot point of the RR trailing arm towards the center of the car.
If it turns out it's a preload problem, and if it's driving to the right only a small amount at the launch, but it also drives perfectly straight at the finishline, then it might only need a minor preload adjustment. The suspension is trying to separate always no matter what angle the bars are set at. They don't always roll straight when staggered because the bars lean slightly to one side.