1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I module( passed on to son who sold it). The best spot to connect a boost gauge is the intake manifold; most typically by 'T-ing' into one of the existing manifold hoses. The Hurricane instructions indicate to "Install supplied vacuum hose manifold to rear nipples as shown in pic. And what's better - a metric or imperial boost gauge? Using the Jiffy box lid as the platform, we marked out the approximate dimensions of the ashtray opening and cut it out using a small saw. Lines off the manifold go to map sensor for my electronic boost controller, meth injection controller, BOV. Im not really sure how the car should perform in correct conditions. On edit - that setup above will have no boost.
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I added a AEM AFR and boost gauge. First, you need to decide the maximum boost pressure you plan to run. With that done, refit the seal to the firewall and poke the boost hose through to the cabin. We routed our boost gauge hose around the factory blow-off valve tube, beneath the top-mount intercooler, parallel with some factory tubes that run along the firewall and, finally, though the firewall. So far it's held up to 15lbs of boost with no problems. If the wastegate is faulty of course, it could be boosting constantly.
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2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3. I know I should be in to vacuum. Then ran a different line from my IM to my boost gauge and wastegate. View attachment 151090. exactly the best way to learn. Another question is, what is the line that runs into the little filter shaped piece? Stock ICV tubing sucks and cracks over and over again. The hose should not be kinked, it should be kept well away from intense heat sources and it should not foul the operation of any moving parts - particularly the throttle!
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I had one that was off on the turbo on the compressor, when i was searching for the boost gauge line. Here's how to run the vacuum lines for different configurations of aftermarket parts. In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it. Someone has suggested using the FPR line, but I'm not sure I want to use this. I used clear epoxy on the fittings in the manifold as an extra precaution. Disconnected everything at Multi-T coming off the vacuum lines attached to carbs and plugged in just the boost gauge and NO VACUUM OR BOOST at all when running. Then ran a line from the middle of the IM to the MS and teed in the boost gauge as well. I disconected the cruise controll as well seeing as the wires were all of will sort that out when i have the boost pipes fixed. Year and Model: 1999 V70 XC AWD 2. Just wanting best results really. Everything seems to work now. Problem is it keeps going up too fast!!! My plan is to run a maximum of 10 psi of boost.
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We're certainly happy with its integration (both inside the cabin and under the bonnet), but the low mounting location and the small gauge diameter make viewing relatively difficult; there's no such thing as a casual glance at this boost gauge. 60trim wrote:Here is a little vid I decided to do for you guys to better understand how I ran mine and how it should be done. Brass fittings are certainly the most durable but for a completely stealth installation you can't go past the plastic T-pieces used on 993cc Daihatsu Charade carby turbo engines. Total Cats: 3, 877. tap the FPR line like it says in my instructions for the MAP sensor in the MS. Ok super frustrated. Can someone help a brotha out..... Last edited by z3roneo on Fri Jun 23, 2006 10:45 am, edited 2 times in total. Is this the wrong line? Location: Lake Jackson, TX. Its just too much hassle to go n/a again, plus i would miss it too much. Here is the best vac hose routing info I have come across in a while. While it's aimed primarily at automotive 'newbies', the more experienced tweakers might learn a thing or two as well... What Sort of Boost Gauge Do You Need? Diaphragm was broken, no vacuum, so replaced it with one from Ebay. Note that we decided to mount the gauge in the centreline of the centre console, which meant the gauge sits to one side of the faceplate.
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Note - a standard 52mm boost gauge will not fit inside the WRX's ashtray cavity. Anyone have any insight (before I tear this whole thing apart) whether the way I have connected the vacuum lines (again as per Hurricane's instructions in the first pic) would cause a no vacuum/boost situation since it is vastly different from the MPI pic? The wastegate adjust pressure varies with turbo model - there is a chart in the VRD. Have a question related to Turbos, Nitrous, Supercharging, ect... ask it here. Your budget will determine whether you'll be using a mechanical or, possibly, an electronic boost gauge. Year and Model: 1996 850 turbo. Z3roneo wrote:FTWNeon wrote:Did the camera wake up yet? I want to just get rid of it and source my wastegate off the manifold. Then there's something wrong with my car, because I am above 50psi at idle, and up around 80psi when running it up. We were prepared to make this compromise, though; the gauge was primarily for tuning purposes and, as mentioned, we wanted the most integrated look possible.
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Wanted to see if my turbo'd peeps would help me out with the Vacuum lines for all the turbo goodies... A pic would be nice since I'm a visual learning... Take the manifold off. SOLD 7/09- 2002 Dodge Neon ACR | Flame Red. Blue is just a dump into the fresh air snorkel and should breathe freely. Footnote - a week after fitting our boost gauge, three WRX enthusiasts commented on the "neat, factory look" look of the install. The third port of the T-piece is dedicated to the boost gauge.
Deleted the Line that connects the WGA and Compressor nipple from the tee that connects with the Boost Gauge and RRFPR.. (Was told on the org that running that line would cause a high idle). Location: Kansas City, MO. Lastly, my car has a charcoal canister, part number 16131180886. 1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current.
The nipple for the ICV line can be replaced with a 3/4" barbed fitting from the hardware store. I just got a 94 850 t5 manual sedan just a while ago and im having trouble with the vacuum lines. I'm in the process of putting in my new MS3x, but all my vacuum lines are disconnected from my intake manifold. All ^^^^ this was taught to me by Butters. Bleed your cooling system ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread I use -4AN. First NGC Neon on MS. Winston Churchill wrote:Yes, Madam, I am drunk, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly. Not to mention the electrical connections don't work either but thats a simple fix.
Yellow to wastegate valve (the one with the long arm... ). I have one other free nipple (red circle). I screwed that barbed fitting into the rubber grommet. The cars performance is not affected - its just not showing the correct pressure. 2003 Silver SXT - Totalled. Have a good look under the bonnet to find a seal that isn't too crowded with wires and/or cables and prise it away from the firewall using a flat-blade screwdriver - be careful not to strain any wires or cables from inside the car.
Another pic of where it enters the plenum. Does that line only run the stock guage or does it have to do with the fueling, timing, etc.?
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