The climate control module on your Dodge Ram controls the heat, A/C, temperature, and more and can be adjusted in your cabin to keep your truck comfortable. I did some searching and found no answer so here goes. A/C evaporator installed. Disconnect the 1/2" and 5/8" A/C lines using a special tool available from most auto parts stores. Remove the safety collars.
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This can affect the comfort of your cabin, and may also affect the control of your blower motor or activation of the A/C compressor. Both methods eliminate all of the steps necessary on the engine side of the firewall (A/C lines, computer, vacuum line, heater box nuts). Dodge ram 1500 vent selector not working. Remove the two nuts and two bolts that secure the center of the dash assembly to the SRS bracket. The mechanical swivel unit. That's the bolt that holds it all together. There are some suggestions on the TDR website (and other web sources) that discuss faster methods to accomplish the task. With the new core pushed firmly in place, install the brackets and ground strap.
The floor position is no different from the floor/defrost position. If you notice these symptoms, inspect the climate control module and wiring for damage, and check the actuators to ensure they are working as they should before replacing the climate control module. Heater core installed. I think it makes good sense to do the job once and do it right.
Remove the screws securing the upper and lower half of the heater box. It can also control the climate control actuators below the dash that make the adjustments as needed to reach the desired vent position or temperature. After 19 years of service, Red Ryder's tubes were flattened and the corrosive effect of electrolysis had taken its toll. Dodge ram vent selector not working draft. Then I attached the steering column and the shift indicator cable. Remove the four nuts securing the heater box.
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I completed the connections on the engine side first and then moved to the interior. Engine Side of the Firewall. Remove one of the caps and install approximately two ounces of A/C oil. Disconnect the vacuum line next to the A/C lines. Failure is indicated by an inability to choose between defrost and floor. Dodge ram vent selector not working class. Do you think I have another bad blower motor or could it be a wiring or maybe a ground issue? Editor's note: The Geno's folks are sending Scott a Cab Fresh Filter Kit to cover the outside air inlet grid and prevent the messy pine straw and debris problem in the interior of the truck. Lenny Reed was driving Red Ryder back from the compound installation and sent me a snapshot of the overhead console with a temperature reading of 3°. Replace the cap prior to installing the heater box to keep the oil from spilling out.
Using pliers, pull straight up first on the control rod, then pull up on the cable support bracket. Finally I measured the discharge air temperature with the heat on maximum, 134°! My heat only comes from the vents and and when I change to defrost or floor it doesn't happen. What I suggest is this. Issues with air vent positioning. Reassemble the upper and lower half, making sure the blend doors are in their respective mounting holes and move freely. I used my infrared thermometer to measure the inlet and outlet coolant temperatures and verified they were receiving adequate coolant. Mode Door 2: When mode door 1 is set to divert air away from the vents and into the second stage of the system, door #2 chooses whether air goes to the defrost vents to the windshield or out through the floor vents in the passenger and driver's side footwells. The second is in the upper right hand corner behind the glove box, facing up. Separate the upper and lower half of the heater box assembly and remove the A/C evaporator. Open the glove box and press "in" toward the center on each side and lift the glove box out of the dash assembly. The trim pieces that hold the carpet at the doorjamb.
Remove the engine coolant supply and the return hoses attached to the heater core by removing the clamps and working them free. Disconnect the vacuum lines located to the right of the heater box assembly. Red Ryder's evaporator was blocked approximately 25 percent with one-inch pine needles tightly compacted, which blocked the airflow through the entire box. The bad news was he still had four hours to go. Mode Door 1: This door regulates air flow to either the dash vents or defrost/floor. Hi, What you described sounds like it is related to what is called the mode door actuator. While one person holds the dash up against the front mounting holes, the other person tightens the two 13mm bolts. Use OEM replacement parts. I topped off the fluids, connected the batteries, started Red Ryder and checked for leaks. It could be stuck between the settings. It is too easy to break so I cautiously repositioned the dash. Remove the screws securing the heater core to the upper half. Air Vent Selector Not Working?: the Blower Control Works Fine but. Install the new heater core. On this vehicle, there are two mode door actuators, one for the defroster and the other for the floor and panel vents.
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In my years with Turbo Diesels, faster methods do not always equal a quality job. Be sure to put a drain pan under the truck to catch the engine coolant. In all, it is a job definitely worth doing, just not one I would want to do again anytime soon. Repositioning the dash assembly worked best for me with two pairs of hands. And, the old tubes penetrating the firewall are used as part of this scheme. Details, details, the gear indicator cable. Just for grins, it is one of those jobs that will put you upside down, improve your contortionist skill set, and remove the skin from your knuckles and forearms. Once the thermostat had opened, I began to take temperature readings. I then installed the two bolts and two nuts supporting the center to the floor and completed the installation by securing the five screws on the top. I've been putting off replacing the heater core in Red Ryder (a '98 Dodge Turbo Diesel) for a lot longer than I should have. It's what the actuator slides into that moves the blend door. Had I not pulled the heater box and disassembled it, I would have not found the pine needles blocking the air flow and I would not have received the full benefit of the labor-intensive repair. If you do not have the ability to refill the refrigerant you can have the local shop do it later. The balance of this winter is going to be much more comfortable.
You most likely have an air door actuator problem. Lift the driver's side off of the 13mm bolt and allow the dash assembly to rest on the steering column. I did notice this summer when I ran the A/C that it didn't blow overly hard but now that its real cold out I know its not blowing hard enough. Remove the air box and the three screws securing the ECU to the firewall. Remove the knee panel below the steering column. I measured the inlet and outlet temperatures on both turbochargers and across the heater core to confirm coolant flow…all good! Article originally published in Turbo Diesel Register, Issue 96. The heater box's design now contains leaking fluids. ) Truth is, it is one of those jobs that no person who has ever done it before would rightfully volunteer to do.
If they are good, then with it plugged in, see if it reacts when you change the air flow direction. The foam around the heater core and A/C evaporator lines was good enough to reuse.
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