The hose we selected was one that connects to the purge control solenoid on the underside of the manifold. Im not really sure how the car should perform in correct conditions. The KLR also generates and electrical signal to drive factory boost gauge.
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Nah, i am just budgeting until i find a job. Installing a Mechanical Boost Gauge. I don't know the function of all the ports on the carb. Makes it easier to trace them through the engine bay if you have any issues. Location: Florida Panhandle. Front fender... then back into the center console to the boost gauge... Would extra long vacuum hose make the boost gauge somewhat inaccurate?? The sending unit comes with an adapter so it can be Teed into a reference line. Location: Krugersdorp. But no that doesn't make sense because the MAP sensor and BOV needs to see vacuum and boost as well. To clear up some things for people and offer something a little simpler than getting a vacum block for the brake booster. This can be done by fabricating custom metal brackets, but we opted for some extra high strength epoxy - it's much easier and, depending how much you use, it's damn near as strong. 60trim wrote:Here is a little vid I decided to do for you guys to better understand how I ran mine and how it should be done. Total Cats: 3, 460. iirc: - map signal always good to get from the back end of the IM. First, you need to decide the maximum boost pressure you plan to run.
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Chatted with Boostjunkie from the org and he said it was all good... 1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current. If I understood Brian correctly above, he says that there is a lot of turbulence there. Probably will order one tomorrow. 4 psi), a gauge that reads up to 1. Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2005 7:39 pm. First, manifold vacuum won't register on boost/vacuum gauges unless you make a connection downstream of the throttle body (ie inside the intake manifold). 2nd port goes to RRFPR and Tee's off to the BOV. Waste-gate and the blue to intake pipe and the bypass pipe to the vacuum tree.
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Wish I could help with this but I took it apart in March and can't remember where the hoses where hooked up. Sorry, I do not know what FPR is and what the solenoid there does. Sorry to cut in too this post but 14 psi for ur oil i dont think that is right. I went home at lunch and tore this thing apart and looked at the ports that Hurricane had suggested to use. Using the Jiffy box lid as the platform, we marked out the approximate dimensions of the ashtray opening and cut it out using a small saw. So if anyone else has some suggestions, please post... On edit - that setup above will have no boost. Most boost gauges incorporate a bulb for nighttime illumination. I have a seperate vacuum line for BOV, fuel pressure regulator, brake booster, and wastegate. Wanted to see if my turbo'd peeps would help me out with the Vacuum lines for all the turbo goodies... A pic would be nice since I'm a visual learning... And what sort of T-pieces should be used?
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Its just too much hassle to go n/a again, plus i would miss it too much. Doesnt the wastegate require vacuum and not boost??? Have a question related to Turbos, Nitrous, Supercharging, ect... ask it here. Vacuum hose offers OE-level durability and it integrates into the underbonnet scenery perfectly. Location: NYC, ALBANY NY. It doesn't matter if you drive a Pulsar ET or a Jaguar XJ-R, a boost gauge is essential for observing peak boost levels, tuning and general faultfinding. Changed the vacuum lines to the ports suggested. I would connect it like the 2nd pictures shows.. All righty.
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This leaves room for a high-low boost switch alongside the gauge - you never know.... To attach the boost gauge to the faceplate we used the retaining bracket that was included in our purchase (brackets are available separately from most gauge outlets). I connected mine off that line and it worked correctly. I'm wondering if I chose the best one for MAP. It's strange though. Note - in no circumstance should a hose, cable or electrical wire rub against the metal edge of the firewall hole. Location: South Carolina. Drops back to 0 once at a steady speed. Sloka-t. - Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge. I was wondering if there's another location to run the vacuum line to get more accurate/faster reading? Join Date: Aug 2009. SOLD 7/09- 2002 Dodge Neon ACR | Flame Red. The cars performance is not affected - its just not showing the correct pressure.
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Four millimetre rubber vacuum hose - available from auto parts stores for around $3 per metre - is fine for running from the manifold to the in-cabin gauge. We're led to believe that the same T-pieces are fitted to atmo versions as well. Take the manifold off. I also have a connection where (now removed) cruise control was attached at the back of the intake manifold. VW Golf CTi 1993 (Sold) FUN. Mine when warm is at 25 and 40 when cold. 98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85. I have a capped connection on the front of intake manifold. Two electrical terminals can usually be found on the back of the gauge - one for a positive electrical feed and one for Earth. If there is, then should I cap off the one I am using right now, or where should I route it to? From your sticker posted above: Red to compressor (turbo). Seriously, Matts is a no-judging place. Got rid of that solenoid and just connected the FPR right to the manifold. Others can take care of the other vacuum line question.
Forgive me for the crappy vid. Blue on intake pipe. But now my question is on that setup the car pulls very strong. Haven't started up the car yet because my laptop and TunerStudio won't detect my MS. Not sure if the red lights are supposed to light up when it's in accessory position, but it won't connect. The Garrett turbo compressor housing isn't drilled and tapped for a vacuum line yet. Note that we decided to mount the gauge in the centreline of the centre console, which meant the gauge sits to one side of the faceplate. They are not very robust. I'm thinking if I should reroute the vacuum hose.... And i can see the boost on the gauge is about 0. Our approach was to whip up a replacement faceplate for the ashtray opening and fit the gauge directly to the faceplate. Northern Wis. - 2020 Yamaha Sidewinder LTX SE. The final task is to secure the faceplate to the dashboard.
For the past year or so I've been working on a spare M50 motor for my 1995 BMW 325ic. With that done, refit the seal to the firewall and poke the boost hose through to the cabin. Location: VA. - Been thanked: 17 times. We were prepared to make this compromise, though; the gauge was primarily for tuning purposes and, as mentioned, we wanted the most integrated look possible. I'll post actually pics of this when the camera wakes up... Did the camera wake up yet? So where should you wire the illumination bulb to? Contact: Can someone tell me the best way to route my vacuum lines. Steady throttle will keep it at to have a load on the motor before it builds up boost.
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