Last edited by nynoah; 07-29-2013 at 09:39 AM. Not all yokes have splines all the way down inside them. I have tried everything I can think of but I can't get the front coupler and yolk to touch.
- Can't get driveshaft back in 2022
- Can't get driveshaft back in 3
- Can't get driveshaft back in 5
- Can't get driveshaft back in front
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Can't Get Driveshaft Back In 2022
Just enough gap for it to slide in place. Mine has a 1/2" gap when held against either the front or rear yokes. Re: Driveshaft will not go in! The differential and spring are on blocks. In reply to EeeByGum: I put a jubilee clip around it but it was still oozing grease while I was fitting the hub. G-Lieutenant General. 73's, fuel cell, 5 lug, p. d. b., 4-6 drop.
It came out so easily. Update: I took the rear shaft & parts to Drive Shaft King (Beckley Ave. in Dallas) during my lunch break. I put the universal with the long side to the rear. At least the speedo gear is where it should be, relative to the hole. I have one somewhere on how to drill out rivets on a Bosch washing machine motor and solder in brushes that cost 3 quid, they charge a fortune for a ' reconditioned' motor, which is crap they just give it a clean and replace the brushes that you could do easily if the did not rivet it and if they made brushes that clip in. Location: Posts: 3, 921. The mount holes for the rear diff. Location: S. W. Chicago, IL. Parking - Car with broken left driveshaft won't stay in park. That spring is supposed to be behind the rubber lip. Infact, I was quite surprised how easy it just slid back in. I would have to look at my spare and see how it is located on the frame. I wouldn't heat it up because you might melt the rubber in the carrier brg that is supporting that end of the shaft. There seems to be some metal spring that was mis shaped in the transmission but it gave alot and came right out not sure what that is but I'm sure it was attached to something.
Can't Get Driveshaft Back In 3
Driveshaft won't go in Transmission. Yeah maybe I was thinking of disconnecting the half-shafts. Currently, I don't need it off, but I will whenever I take the diff apart so I figure I might as well loosen it while I have everything taken apart:/. Take a break and try again. I tried a bunch of ways but after an hour or so I gave up and took both driveshafts to my machine shop.
I really appreciate the help and suggestions. Clutch, transmission, rear axle. So I am going to replace the seal and see if that helps any. I'm sure there is a torque setting but I've never worried about it. What shops did you talk to? Can't get driveshaft back in 5. A solution was never found as to why it had to be cut any time you pulled it out. Put a jack under the front of the torque tube to relieve the weight pressing the drive shaft down. Our certified mechanics come to you ・Backed by 12-month, 12, 000-mile guarantee・Fair and transparent pricing. They can keep you from wasting time and money on a shaft that is in bad condition. It hasn't moved even the smallest bit.
Can't Get Driveshaft Back In 5
This was my first time doing this on any vehicle so I am definitely a rookie. I knew it wasn't going to be able to get it apart. Check to see if the bolts that hold the front suspension subfame are tight and if the yoke test appears to show that they may be too far apart then the only possible solution is to see if the front suspension will slide back a bit. It won't travel past the splines at all. Tried using a dead blow hammer to wack the couple toward the yolk, tried loosening the "center support" to allow it to float all the way forward. I've given it every ounce of *** I've got, and it won't budge forward. I am trying to replace the u-joint mating the slip yoke to the rear shaft. Can't get driveshaft back in 3. Final Shaft is the winner! Location: This is off the wall but who knows!
Increasing the clearance. This is why I like the cap style with locking tabs..... 'Perciate the feedback guys. I guess as long as you know what your doing and know what to look for you should be ok. Location: Crown Point, NY and Punta Gorda, FL. If the spines are started get a helper and both of you push with your feet against the axle housings.
Can't Get Driveshaft Back In Front
But I'm always here. If you're going to live like there's no hell............... you'd better be right.... Hey guys. Now I make it a habit to look at those bolts every once in a while. I had my driveshaft out for about a week before I was able to get it to a machine shop to replace my carrier bearing. I know to go from the bolt side instead of the nut, but can you used the resistance of the driveline and get them loose, or do you need to feed a screw driver through the yoke so as not to load the transfer case and differential etc..? I even took the driveshaft out and have been manually trying to negotiate it back in, but no luck. Rick, your comment about not using a come-along was an instant flashback to my childhood. It's a 2001 focus and it was rusted to all hell. Can't get driveshaft back in front. Just Take all the pieces to the DL shop and have it all done at the same time. All that peaned over metal could be preventing the capsfrom moving around enough to come off. What is the preferred method for breaking the bolts at the yoke loose. You can bend of break things very easily on a unibody that way. Join Date: Nov 2012. My car has 160000 miles.
Tostito was talking about pulling his diff, though. You can pry them out another way, but if your not careful you can scratch the seal lip and that might cause it to leak. It's a soft enough material to have a burr on it. Definitely not a seal issue, as I have taken the seal completely off. It is also possible the yoke is twisted, but I would suspect the output shaft first. I put in an LT1 and T56, and am trying to get the driveshaft back in, but the end that slides into the transmission will not slide in more than 1/2 way. 23 SLP Limited Slip. Please help!! I can't get my driveshaft back in. Those allow the pump to suck air real bad. I don't understand your first sentence. In reply to gethin_allen: Had to cut off the nut in the end but it turned out to be the bolt that was rubbish, nut had stripped the threads half way down and that's why it wouldn't come back off.
It has leaked about 10 oz over the last couple of weeks. I say a good set of jewelers files to the rescue! Nappa sells the hardware to retain the u jonts. Removing drive shaft. So I have the older style (I guess) driveshaft that connects to the differential via 6 studs vs the more common 4 as seen here: Here are some pictures of mine: and I found this: So obviously, that's where the drive shaft connects to the differential but how the heck do I separate the assembly?
Axle/Gears: Built 10 bolt& 9inch w/spool. 2000 Pete 379 with big cat and 13sp EF. There should only be just enough gap to just wiggle the u-joint into place. I was removing the rear driveshaft, and had disconnected it from the differential, but couldn't get it to pull free at the other end. They used a grinder to cut the u-joint into pieces, then hammered out the ends. Tried it today, with the smallest metal hammer I had... a real dinky little it worked like a charm. Pretty sure that's going to be the issue, but will find out for sure tomorrow morning at the transmission shop. Of course, there's the subjective messiness of the range between the thud of rubber and ring of steel, including the clunk of aluminum. 1970 Chevy C10 SWB 5. The differential is made to allow either side to spin at different rates. But the u-joints and carrier bearings are warn out. I went to install the rear driveshaft and found it was at least 1/2" too short.
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