In this ho to, we pull a rusted-on pitman arm off our old jeep to correct the steering for a 4-inch lift kit we are installing. Pitman arm, tighten the pressing bolt, and the arm will pop right off. Just An Admirer... MEL DIVISION 1958-1960. A safety so the arm can't fall off, like this one. July 19th should be "Drive Like Rockford Day".
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Pitman Arm Won't Come Offres
So, with the exception of the little neoprene washer on the center link, which looks quite easy to replace, I managed to get everything apart undamaged, while doing almost all of it wrong. It will seem like nothing is happening and then when the arm finally breaks free it will let go with a pop. You must be logged in to reply to this topic. I tried loosening the pinch bolt on the pitman arm, but the arm is rusted to the shaft. I raise chickens, so I am literally a chicken tender. And here's the tool that was used for the job. New boot for shaft also(courtesy of my old Rancho shocks). Do I need a slide hammer? We then ground down far enough to leave very little metal so that we could use a hammer and chisel to crack the pitman arm. Can you turn it so that you can get a jack on one side then a hefty bar and a sledge on the other side so it shocks it off the taper.
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Scariest thing to hear " I am from the government and i am here to help". Do NOT use an impact gun. 1968 Baha Bug with 2. The bolt is to make sure it never moves under stresses of driving. 11/25/13 7:05 p. m. Loossen the steering box bolts, twist the box so arm end moves up and retighten bolts. Won't budge with a crescent wrench. I used a 3 jaw puller and put valve grinding compound on the contact points to keep it from slipping off worked good. I just spent a good 8hrs trying to get this damn pitman arm off. I thought for sure I was going to break that puller.
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But this heat was minimal compared to the flame of a 4000+ degree. Last edited by 66Lincoupe on Wed Jan 05, 2011 11:23 am, edited 1 time in total. After a few turns there was a pop and the steering gear slid down more, but was held up by two things, the downpipe from the exhaust manifold and more importantly it hung up on the small metal arm with the plastic bearing that is part of the shift linkage. I have everything cleaned up. If the old pickle forks won't work, get a bigger hammer. Last one i did on this model truck was a '98 in 2000. a nut moves way easier after 2-3 years than after 13-14. i have tons of penetrating oil on it. So, I grabbed a large flathead and tried to wedge it between the center link and pitman arm like one side of a pickle fork just to get a bit more room for the tie rod end jaws to grab.
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On: November 03, 2003, 01:29:13 AM ». This became tedious and I decided I no longer cared about saving the steering gear or the center link, I just needed the damn thing out. Thing popped right off. Watch fro the little horizontal legs to flex and stop just before they break. Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:01 am. "There are very few personal problems that cannot be solved through a suitable application of high explosives. " Using the dremel tool to cut the nut off isn't great. Location: Southfield, MI. Lincoln warns that it will destroy the ball stud seals, but if you have a new centerlink, I guess it does not matter what you do to the old one. Saw off the shaft flush with the backside of the arm, take it over to the press and press out the stubby piece of shaft and you will have a pitman arm in perfect condition, ready for installation when the new steering box arrives from dodge.
I just did one on my Toyota 4X4. KULTULZ wrote:The center link connection has to be removed first. Well calmini instructions call it the pitman arm, i am confused now lol, drag link sounds right though. Since i hammered on the arm and shaft, i think i should replace it.
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